Document(s) 18 of 18

Introduction

From 1991 to 1995, with funding from IDRC, a technology team, headed by Dr. Morlaye Bangoura from la Direction nationale de la recherche scientifique et technique (DNRST) in Guinea, set out to study and improve the dying techniques of Guinea's textile cooperatives. With the help of experts from a Montreal-based textile company, le Centredes technologies textiles du Canada, the project team was able to develop a method of producing local indigo dyes, train local people in alternative dying techniques, and add to the cooperatives' design ideas. 

Before the project started, the women's cooperatives were buying leaves used to make indigo dye from the marketplace and processing them. This was time-consuming and did not produce the best quality dye. Alternatively, they bought imported synthetic dye, which was costly and not in keepingwith the traditional natural product. An extraction method was developed to produce indigo dye locally at a lower price than the imported dyes. Extracting the dye directly in the field increased the quality of the dye. 

In order to extract the indigo, small pails with a faucet and screen 2 cm from the bottom are used. The indigo leaves and water are placed in the pail and left overnight. The water is then drained from the pail through the faucet. A processing chemical is added to precipitate the solution, which is dried in the sun. The entire process takes about 30 hours. One kilogram of fresh leaves produces 35 grams of concentrated indigo powder. 

Another goal of the project was to augment the design techniques used by the cooperatives.While adhering to the original cultural aspects of their designs, new ideas from other countries, such as China and India, were introduced. Their batik designs, for example, are produced using a wooden stamp made by local artisans, but the stamps are costly. The women were shown techniques using string glued on a plate. This was quick, easy and inexpensive. The technique also allowed them to vary their designs from the ones on the wooden stamps. The project also introduced synthetic screening techniques (similar to silk screening) and other techniques in order to make a variety of patterns. 

Workshops were also held to help the women obtain better quality dyes, thereby reducing the amount of dye they needed. Workshops were also held to train the women in simple business accounting methods. 

Obstacles overcome 

• Establishing trust - At first, the women did not want to give away their secrets and did not trust those offering help. It tookalmost one and half years to gain their trust and the dyers' cooperation. 

• Improving incomes - For many of the cooperatives, the important part of their operation is the design. Whether they used natural or synthetic dyes was not as important. For the local market, this was suitable. However, when they tried to export the finished products, natural dyes were in demand and a higher quality dye was expected, especially in terms of wash-fastness. Using the locally produced,natural dyes opened up another market for them. 

Lessons learned 

• Small workshops given directly to each cooperative transferred new information more effectively than large seminars set up for representatives of each cooperative. 

• The optimum training period is four-to-six weeks. After each training period, trainees can return to their countries and apply what they have learned. This produces better results in thefield, and keeps the trainees connected to their home life.

Impact

• Expanding business - With the introduction of better quality natural dyes, the cooperatives can expand their business by exporting. 

• Selling dye - The harvesters now extract the indigo directly in the field, and sell the indigo in powder form on the market instead of the leaves. This has kept the pickers working, and also made their product competitive with imported products. 

• Training in Canada - A one-year training program was given in Canada at le Centre des technologie textiles to one of Guinea's team members. He was able to return to Guinea with enough expertise to hold workshops at the cooperatives. This is still ongoing, and is being funded by other donor organizations. 

• Resource conservation - The new dying processes eliminated the need to use "wanda", a local root, which was threatened by over-harvesting. 

• New measuring methods - The project introduced simple measuring methods using commonly available tomato paste cans. The cooperatives can better control their costs and reduce dye waste. 

Potential users

Contact

Norman Jubinville 
Centre des Technologie Textiles 
Montreal, Quebec, CANADA 
Tel: (514) 778-1870 
Fax: (514) 778-3901 

Document(s) 18 of 18